Tracking orangutans in Indonesia was a major highlight during my second backpacking tour of south east Asia.
It was the reason we opted to fly into Sumatra rather than explore the more popular parts of Indonesia such as Bali and the Gili Islands.
The night before our grand departure into the rainforest, we celebrated with locals at Bukit Lawang village. We sang, we danced and we enjoyed an impromptu karaoke involving a kitten and a semi-dilapidated ukulele.
In the morning, I gobbled down a plate of rice for some slow burning energy to set me up for the trek ahead. Little did I know what was in store…
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Tracking orangutans in Indonesia
Our three-day trek began with a jeep ride into the heart of Gunung Leuser National Park. Wearing our long sleeved clothing, we put on our backpacks and began hiking through the mountains.
Tracking orangutans in Indonesia must be one of my favourite hikes. I felt like Alice in Wonderland as we scrambled over tangled tree roots and ducked under giant lily pad-like plants.
It was a strong start as we sped off into the rainforest with our two expert guides. We swung on vines and climbed trees, failing to contain our excitement.
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At around midday, we reached our first mountain top where we settled down on a fallen tree for lunch.
Our guides shared out pineapple chunks from our backpacks and vegetable rice wrapped in banana leaves.
It was upon opening this little bundle of treats when my stomach began to curdle. I will spare you the details of what followed.
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Food Poisoning on the go
It’s safe to say I gave lunch a miss and we continued on our journey into the wild. Soon I began to feel overheated in an already humid environment.
Our trusty guides kept handing me water and offered to carry my rucksack as I floated through the wilderness. My feet carried me up and down the mountains and across the riverbanks like a baby deer.
Dinner was a no go for me as we set up camp to the sound of the crickets. I laid out on a blanket on the rocks as my fellow adventurers gathered firewood and bathed in the stream. Oh yes, and one of them decided to photograph my struggles…
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I decided to sleep at the end of our communal tent so I could get up in the night with minimal disturbance. But the reality of scampering off into the bushes in the middle of the rainforest in the dark is not ideal, let me tell you.
At around 3am, on my third or fourth trip, my head torch fell off and I struggled on in the pitch black.
After a few seconds, my eyes adjusted to the moonlight. Suddenly I felt an intense burning sensation in my foot and something crawling up my leg. So I whipped off my trousers, fled down the mud hill and threw myself into the river.
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Our jungle guides swiftly joined me and held my foot above the water while I anchored myself against the current, trying to keep my nakedness below water.
“Red ants,” they said. “Nothing to worry about. You should try and catch some sleep.”
Fantastic. Public humiliation with nothing but red ants to explain my hysterics. So my friend grabbed me a towel to save what was left of my modesty and we returned to camp.
Tracking orangutans in Indonesia, Day Two
The following day was tough. While my symptoms showed no sign of easing, I was running on empty. But I was determined not to let it hinder my experience.
I remember swaying on the rocks as we waded up stream and holding a limp arm out to the beautiful monkeys we passed along the way.
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At one point, I was advised to be transported out via a stretcher but I nipped that suggestion in the bud.
Then, after another morning of trekking, we finally found what we had been looking for – a whole family of orangutans. What a moment.
We crouched in the bushes as we watched little babies swinging in the branches and adult orangutans munching on bananas from the ground.
Orangutan Mina was notoriously fierce and I didn’t need her adding to my list of woes. So I laid low at first and watched things play out.
After some grunting and teeth baring, Mina eventually accepted our presence and we were able to get closer to the group. Adrenaline took over and I joined in the cautious excitement.
That evening I slept better and managed to nibble on some crackers with no serious repercussions (see pictures above). It’s safe to say I avoided rice for some time after this particular adventure.
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In the end…
So here you have it, another travel mishap but another fantastic adventure all the same.
Yes food poisoning somewhat slowed me down and left me feeling totally delirious throughout our trip. But I still got to encounter these beautiful creatures and made it through with some laughs along the way!
It’s all part of the adventure and I wouldn’t have it any other way <3
Thanks for following. Stay safe and until next time,
